Work permits, teacher holidays, Covid-19 and bad luck: Why we have not been home.

During the 19 months we have lived in Canada, we have not been back home to the U.K to visit. The reasons why are complex and frustrating, but I’m going to do my best to explain them here.

Jacob walking out to the propeller plane bound for Prince George when we arrived in Canada, August 2020

Remember when the blogs on West Country Wandering were updates about our attempts to get to Canada when the boarder was closed? I bet you thought the days when Canadian Immigration ruled our lives and we were endlessly waiting for contact from a faceless bureaucratic government body were over. I know I did.

Oh how naïve I was!

Currently, we are waiting to be given an extension to our original work permits/visas which will allow us four extra months (starting from February) living and working in Canada, for the meantime we have temporary ‘permission’ to work but not leave the country.

Confused? I don’t blame you!

Let’s go back to the start.

Summer evening in Edington, Wiltshire, U.K

Our first visas for working in Canada

In October 2019, Jacob was offered a job in Canada, at which point he applied for a two year employer specific work permit sponsored by his Canadian employer. We also applied for a two year ‘open work permit’ for me, as a spouse and dependent of Jacob.

An ‘Open Work Permit’ allows you to apply for any job, located anywhere in Canada, barring, and it actually states this on my work permit, ‘strip clubs’! Whereas, with an employer specific work permit you can only work for the employer who sponsored your visa.

As you may remember, from the story of our original plans for moving to Canada, Jacob arrived in Canada in February 2020. At which point he received his visa and his two year permission to work in Canada began. Then, three weeks later, when the Canadian boarder closed due to Covid-19, he came back to the U.K and we both arrived in Canada in late August 2020.

Although I did not enter Canada until August, my Open Work Permit – as it was granted as a ‘dependent’ of Jacob – actually also began in February 2020 and would therefore expire, like Jacob’s, in February 2022.

Sunset above Edington, Wiltshire, U.K

The boarder closure during our first year in Canada

During our first year here, the Canadian boarder remained closed due to Covid-19. With the boarder closed, we would have potentially jeopardized our right to work here if we had tried to return to the U.K for a visit. Had we done so and not been granted permission to re-enter, we would have also been trapped on a different continent from Bally-the-Greyhound.

To be honest, until August 2021, I was not too upset about not being able to go back to the U.K. I actually felt far more sad that the boarder closure meant that friends and family could not come here and experience beautiful British Columbia.

Then the long, Canadian school summer holiday began, it was eleven months since we had left the U.K and I felt sad that I had so much time on my hands, but was not able to go home.

We had many great adventures that summer and I knew I had to except not being able to visit the U.K, since leaving Canada while the boarder was closed could still mean potentially losing our right to work and I had just landed a new, permanent, job as a teacher in an Elementary School in Prince George.

But then, in August, a family member I am very close to and one of my all time favorite human beings had a heart attack. Being trapped by a boarder closure at a time when you know you are needed at home and desperately want to be there, was not a feeling I ever want to experience again.

As September approached, the date that the boarder was set to open and we would be able to travel freely without fear of losing our right to work in Canada grew closer.

A walk on a summer day in the hills above Edington, Wiltshire, U.K

The Canadian boarder opens

The problem is, that that date, when the boarders would finally open, was the 7th September 2021. The same date that the holiday ended and school started. I had signed a contract, I was starting my new job on the same day we could finally go to the U.K and see people.

Thanks government of Canada, thanks a bunch.

Admittedly, I can see why they did it. By ending the boarder closure when the school holidays ended, they limited the number of people who could have potentially entered Canada at a time when Covid-19 was still busy doing its thing.

It was a smart move but it really penalized people who work in education.

The Canadian boarder opened, people were travelling again, our friends went to the U.K for three weeks almost as soon as the boarder opened in September. But we had to hold on until the school Christmas holiday, only three and a half months to wait.

An ancient Long Barrow in the sunshine, Edington, Wilshire, U.K

Christmas in the U.K

Throughout September and October we waited to see whether the Covid-19 situation would ramp up again before buying our tickets to spend Christmas at home. The pervious year Christmas had effectively been cancelled just a week before by the British Prime Minister; so we were careful not to get our hopes up too much.

Our friends returned from the U.K having had no problems with their travel and telling envy-inducing tales of consuming three Greggs vegan Sausage Rolls a day.

But still we waited to buy our plane tickets. By late November, the general feeling that things were different this winter convinced us to do it: we booked our plane tickets home for Christmas.

We told everyone we would be in the U.K for two weeks during the school Christmas holiday and at that point, knowing I would be seeing people soon, the need to be there and see friends and family really intensified.

Meets ups were planned, spa trips were booked, Christmas presents were ready to pack.

Then four days before we were due to fly, the Canadian government announced a travel advisory for the Christmas period due to the Omicon variant. Canadian citizens and people living in Canada were asked not to engage in non-essential travel.

Jean-Yves Duclos, Canada’s Health Minister, made it pretty plain in a statement: “To those who were planning to travel, I say very clearly, now is not the time to travel”.

There were also warnings that if temporary foreign workers chose to travel outside of Canada, they may not be permitted reentry as when they returned. For two people, without citizenship, with jobs and a old dog in Canada that was a serious threat.

After a day of deliberation (and tears) we decided we really had not been left much choice, we could not go. One of the toughest parts of that decision was knowing that, while the government ‘travel advisory’ was only planned for a month, being a teacher, I did not have the flexibility to say ‘it’s okay we’ll go in February’. I knew I would now have to wait until the Spring school holiday. Another three months away.

So we braced for another three months of waiting and hoping. Spring is the worst time in Prince George; but an utterly stunning time in the U.K. We could do this. We could get to March.

There was a miraculous, barely believable, silver lining. Despite asking people who lived in Canada not to leave for a month, they did not close the boarder. Fully vaccinated foreigners, who tested negative for Covid-19, could still come to Canada.

This meant that, to our utter amazement, after 16 months apart, I was reunited with my Mum who braved temperatures around -27 to spend all of January here. We created some blogs together, you can read all about her experience of defying the pandemic to get here and her adventures in Northern British Columbia.

Sunset and a pony, Edington, Wiltshire, U.K

The end of our first visa

During January 2022, as well as having fun in the snow with my Mum, we also had to address the fact that Jacob’s work contract and both our visas would expire within a month, at the end of February.

Jacob’s supervisor offered him a four month extension to his contract in order for him to be able to tie up some loose ends; which meant we could both apply for extensions to our existing visas.

Jacob very hastily submitted an application to Canadian immigration to extent both our visas by four months, starting at the end of February. He had to submit this application a month before the visa ran out in order for us to be granted ‘Maintained Status’ while we waited for the new visas to come.

Picquet Hill from a Barley field, Edington, Wiltshire, U.K

Maintained status

‘Maintained status’, also called ‘Implied status’, means that while we are waiting for the visa extension to be processed, we can maintain our legal immigration status as ‘Temporary Foreign Workers’ and carry on working until a decision is made on our application.

As we submitted the application for the extension a month before our visas ended, we knew we should be eligible for Maintained Status and, to our relief, Canadian immigration wrote to us almost immediately after we submitted the application, confirming that we had been granted Maintained Status.

The letter stated that we had been granted permission to ‘continue working with the same conditions’ until either 25th May or when our new visas were processed.

This was a relief, I did not much fancy telling my inner-city school, which struggles to recruit teachers, that I could not, legally, finish the school year.

But, my heart sank when I read the part of the letter that stated ‘If you leave Canada before a decision is made on your application, you will no longer be authorized to continue working’.

This meant that while we were in the nether zone, officially called Maintained Status, between two work permits/visas we could not leave the country.

Sunset over the fields, Edington, Wiltshire

Spring Break

When we were granted Maintained Status, Spring Break was still seven weeks away, I was confident that our visas would come through in time.

Keen to do anything we could to make this happen, we wrote – obviously they make it impossible for you to contact them by writing or other means but we summited a useless web form – to Canadian Immigration hoping for some sympathy.

We explained that we had not been able to visit the U.K, even when a loved one was unwell, because we had followed the Canadian Covid-19 travel rules and because I was unable to select when I have time off work. We made it clear that if the new visa came through before the 14th March, we would be able to travel to the U.K for Spring Break.

We received a stock response quoting the rule that if we left Canada while we had Maintained Status and no visa, we would not be allowed to re-enter as workers, only tourists.

Right up to the day before Spring Break I remained hopeful that our visas would come in time to visit the U.K.

But they did not.

My hopes of daffodils, lambs and green hills; of celebrating my sisters 30th birthday (six months late), of meeting my best friend’s baby (a year late, she is now one), of being there to toast my Grandma on her 80th birthday, were dashed.

View from the hill above Edington, Wiltshire, U.K

What next?

The visa extension still has not come through. Our Maintained Status expires on the 25th May, there is now a very real chance that we could wake up on the 26th May no longer eligible to work in Canada. My rather wonderful Principle saw the humorous side of that situation, when she said ‘you can still work, we just can’t pay you’.

The ridiculous thing is that when the new visas do arrive, they only last until the end of the June 2022 anyway!

Inevitably, we have long since started thinking about what is next for us after June. Currently, and rather stressfully, we have no answers to that question.

Whatever happens next, I hope that I never experience the combination of the slowness of visa processing, the limiting impact of not being able to choose when you take time off work, Covid-19 government restrictions and bad luck, which has meant that we have not been able to visit the U.K.

Representing England during the Square Bay Olympics at the Ross cabin in BC last summer (2021)

. . .

Wondering how we were able to come to Canada to work during a pandemic?

A little less arrogant about how far a British passport and a smile can get you

Part two: How Coronavirus derailed our plans for moving to Canada.

Wednesday’s Weekly Update

Flying into the unknown: moving to Canada during a global pandemic.

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Canada Trip: visiting my big sister!

Olive, my little sister, came to visit British Columbia in Spring 2022. Experiencing BC through her eyes made me fall in love with this province all over again. Here is her trip, in her words, but be warned you’ll be looking at flights to BC before you’ve finished reading.

Olive at Lynn Canyon, North Vancouver

Guest Blog by Olive D.

When my sister moved to Canada at the start of the pandemic I don’t think anyone in our family could have predicted it would have been so long until we could see her again.

After hearing that Canada had opened its borders I knew that I wanted to go visit Helen and Jacob, as I hadn’t left the UK since before the pandemic began and I was feeling so bored of my first adult-ish office job. So I booked the flights and started planning!

Reunited!! Helen & Olive in Deep Cove at the end of Olive’s trip

My Vancouver solo trip 

I flew into Vancouver and spent 5 days exploring the city whilst staying in a hostel. The hostel I chose was in Gastown which is known for being the young and hip area of the city with lots of independent stores and mini art galleries to wander around. 

I love to explore new places through my taste buds and I discovered that Vancouver has some tasty vegan-friendly restaurants and coffee shops.

Enjoying the Vancouver cuisine

On pancake day I ate some unreal Canadian style buttermilk pancakes, definitely the best pancakes I have ever eaten on pancake day (don’t tell my mum this though)!

Olive’s pancake day in Vancouver

My short stay was spent walking around the city’s incredible parks, reading on the beaches and going to art galleries and museums.

Blue skies and books in Vancouver

Stanley Park was a highlight of my trip, as the park is huge and very easily accessible from the city. It has everything from beaches to forest trails and it felt like a calm oasis away from the busy city.

In the park there is an impressive collective of first nations totem poles, coming from the UK it was so eye-opening to learn about the history and culture of the first nations people.

I would also recommend the Vancouver art gallery to anyone who enjoys arty stuff, whilst I was there Yoko Ono was staging an exhibition about ‘growing freedom’ which was super thought-provoking and interactive.

Prince George – seeing my sister! 

The flight between Vancouver and Prince George was literally insane, I’ve never seen such incredible views of mountains before!

Olive’s plane ride to PG!

When my plane landed I was so happy to see my sister again, I was also shocked that I had forgotten how much shorter than me she is (she is my little big sister).

Helen & Olive at Cottonwood Island Park – yes, I admit it, I sat on her lap so we look the same height!

I’m not completely sure what I had imagined Prince George would be like but my first impression was that it was an industrial town with a lot of snow and really friendly people. 

Mr PG looking splendid in the sunshine

On my first night in town, I met my sister’s lovely friends and went to Shane Lake which was frozen over for a fire pit and s’mores! According to my sister, fire pits are a must-do Prince George tradition even in the thick snow and minus temperatures.

Jacob, Olive & Helen at the first night fire pit
Olive and Jacob whittling stick for cooking PB hotdogs on her first night in PG
Jacob, Olive, James & Courtney cooking PB hot dogs on the fire

The rest of my week was filled with going cross country skiing for the first time which I loved, eating the yummy vegan food that Prince George had to offer, going to a pub quiz and some cool Canadian breweries. We also went to see the Prince George Cougars play because if you are in Canada you obviously have to watch some ice hockey! 

Ready to go skiing!
Olive’s first time Cross Country Skiing
Taking a break at Santa’s Cabin during a Cross Country Ski
Ski Selfie
Sampling the wine at the Northern Lights Winery, Prince George
Sampling the beer at Trench Brewing & Distillery, Prince George

Coming face to face with an upset mumma moose

I’m still in shock from the unexpected madness of my second day in PG, as on a walk through Forests of the World we had a proper Canadian wildlife experience.

As we walked through the path a huge mother moose and a baby moose came out onto the path and separated me and Helen from Jacob.

Honesty, coming from the UK I had no idea what to do when met with an upset moose and all I remember thinking was ‘wow, moose are really big in real life’.

Luckily my sister did know what to do in this situation and her first thoughts were slightly more helpful. She told us to go and find a thick bunch of trees to hide in so that if the moose decided to charge at us the trees would provide some safety.

The mumma moose was still upset with us for crossing its path and stared at me and my sister and then charged towards us, stopping less than a meter away.

At this point, I was fully freaking out and was doing my best to not burst into tears or just collapse in panic. A serious staring contest then ensued between my sister and the moose, which I guess my sister won as the moose was satisfied enough to leave us alone.

My legs were shaking the entire walk back to the car and after a quick google I found out that moose seriously injure more people in Canada than bears, so I feel very grateful no one got hurt. 

Olive enjoying the view of the Mountains in ‘Forests For the World’ moments before meeting the moose!
Helen & Olive in ‘Forests for The World’ – if we’d known what was about to happen we would not be looking so calm!

Road tripping and a little stay in North Vancouver 

On my last weekend in Canada we did a road trip from Prince George to North Vancouver. This meant I got to see loads more of British Columbia, sleep in an odd motel in a tiny traditional Canadian town and eat a Canadian road trip classic – the A&W burger.

Olive, Courtney & Helen road trippin’
The mountains and the U-Haul – Jacob & James’ road trip vehicle!!

We stayed in Deep Cove which is one of the most magical places I have ever been, the combination of the forests and the fjord make the town seem like something out of a fairytale.

Olive and magical Deep Cove
Helen & Olive, Deep Cove
Olive & Helen, enjoying the view at Courtney’s parent’s house, Deep Cove

Whilst in North Vancouver we visited Lynn Canyon suspension bridge which I’d recommend. The forest felt like a playground with suspension bridges over rivers and trails to waterfalls and clear blue swimming holes.

Olive at Lynn Canyon
Helen & Olive in the forest at Lynn Canyon
Helen at Lynn Canyon

The trip finished on an absolute high as we drove into Vancouver to watch the Vancouver Canucks play Tampa Bay Lightning. I was buzzing with excitement to watch NHL ice hockey and to feel the atmosphere of a massive arena. The Canucks lost but I still could not have asked for a better ending to my stay. 

Jacob and Olive at the Canucks (Ice) Hockey

From writing this I’ve been reminded of just how much excitement we managed to squeeze into a two week trip in British Columbia. Honestly, I can’t wait to go and visit Helen and Jacob again (if they’ll have me?).

. . .

Convinced you need to visit BC? Here’s some blogs to help you plan (and further convince you)…

A guide to the Icefields Parkway to celebrate the opening of the Canadian boarder

“Smells like beer and tastes like poutine” our first visitor shares her thoughts on Northern British Columbia

Chasing the Aurora Borealis in Northern British Columbia

. . .

and if you can’t visit, join us virtually, by subscribing…

The Skyline Trail: When it pays to ignore the warnings and head to the mountains

Sometimes you have to disregard all the reasons not to go on an adventure and just pack your bags! However, even after we got on the trail, this adventure was full of challenging moments. But read on and you’ll see why ignoring the warnings paid off in the end.

Map of the Skyline Trail

Land Acknowledgement

Jasper National Park is located in Treaty 6 and Treaty 8 as well as the traditional lands of the Beaver, Cree, Ojibway, Secwépemc, Stoney and Metis.

The Skyline Trail

Desperate to do more through-hiking

Wild fires were raging through British Columbia transforming some of the world’s greatest views into dirty, smoggy grey skies. The bugs were out in force, stealing the sanity of avid hikers and the weather forecast was predicting a thunder storm in Jasper National Park.

Our car needed some work and could not be trusted on the remote, four-hour drive to Jasper and so our only option to get there was an expensive hire car.

The sciatica, which periodically shows up, was causing me pain in my lower back, was forcing me to question whether I could carry a large backpack.

Bally our sleepy, old greyhound who cannot surmount stairs, let alone mountains, would need to be booked into a costly ‘presidential suite’ at the kennel.

To top it all, the backcountry camping spots along the Skyline Trail were mostly booked up. We could only get a camp spot for one night at Little Shovel, 8 kilometers along the trail.

This meant our only option, if we were to go for it, was to camp at the 8 kilometer point; then wake up early the next day and hike as far as we could along the trail, before coming the whole way back to where we had left the car.

But the Berg Lake Trail had left us desperate to do more through-hiking.

So, obviously, we ignored the warnings, sorted the problems we could and went for it!

Maligne Lake with no mountains, no beautiful reflection and no one enjoying a paddle due to the smoke from wild fires. Check out the difference in the photos taken a day later at the end of this post.

Day one

He did not have his bear spray

As we drove towards Jasper, we became increasingly worried about the thick clouds of smoke. Our very first camping trip in Canada and the Berg Lake Trail through-hike had started with this scenic drive. Normally, as you travel further east towards the Rockies, your excitement grows as the mountains get bigger and bigger.

But as we drove to Jasper to start the Skyline Trail we could see no snow-capped peaks and the smoke was making the back of our throats sore.

The trail head is located at one of Jasper’s famous lakes. We took a quick look before starting, but we could see nothing of Maligne Lake’s incredible postcard view: no mountains and trees were reflected in the water, just murky, slightly orange clouds.

We had been hiking through the forest for about thirty minutes when Jacob realised that he did not have his bear spray. A short while earlier we had stopped to take off a layer and he had unclipped his bear spray to take his bag off, put it on the ground, and left it there.

While Jacob ran back to find it, I stayed with the bags, paced up and down to keep the bugs off me and belted out some power ballads to keep the bears away.

Happily some ‘trail magic’ – an unexpected act of kindness between hikers – meant that Jacob did not have to run far. A couple of hikers had picked it up when they passed it, thinking that someone further up the trail may have dropped it and be in need!

Thankfully, the remainder of the first leg, a steady incline through the forest to Little Shovel, where we would be able to camp, passed without any more excitement!

Jacob hiking through the forest during the first 8 kilometers to Little Shovel
Forest, stream and an orange tinged sky due to the forest fires
Jacob crossing a steam on the first day

Bugs attempting to drain every last milliliter of blood we had in us!

Little Shovel, 8 back country camping spots amongst the trees, not far from the edge of the forest, is described as having ‘beautiful views over Maligne Lake and the Bald Hills’ on Jasper National Park’s website: again, no such luck that today, thanks to the smoke.

But we did not care much that there was no scenic view, we were preoccupied by the bugs attempting to drain every last milliliter of blood we had in us!

We walked back and forth like headless chickens trying to decide on somewhere to camp; imaging one spot to have less bugs and concerned than another might be to high up to be safe in the forecasted storm.

Even wearing loose fitting clothes and bug shirts with head nets fully zipped up, they found a way in. Before long, the skin on my feet and shoulders (where my clothing was tighter) was bright red, mottled and stinging.

While we cooked, we got chatting to a man and woman who were also hiking the Skyline Trail. Justin, the chap, did not have any protection from the bugs, so Jacob returned the trail magic. We had two spare head nets with us, to use in the event that the bugs were not bad enough to warrant wearing the full bug shirt! Jacob gave Justin – who was looking despairing and very grateful – his spare head net.

As the first signs of a thunder storm began, we headed for the comfort of a tent. I love our tent, but this sanctuary was rather pitiful in these circumstances. There were mosquitos lurking in the corners and two sheets of nylon offers a laughable amount of protection from the swipe of a bear paw and about the same from lightening strikes!

With my head full of images of a Grizzly Bear attacking the tent during a storm and guilty thoughts of both our Mums, I feel asleep.

Bug protection!
Dinner time! Under an orange tinted sky thanks to the forest fire smoke.
Bugs and bear protection!
The bugs found the chink in my armor – tight socks – so hiding my feet in a bag was my only option!

He’s trying to bring down the mountain

Around 2:00am Jacob woke me up, lightening was cracking directly overhead. Through the tent material, the night sky was being illuminated in violent flashes.

Half asleep, I tried to compute what Jacob was telling me about this being dangerous and that we had to get ourselves off the ground as much as we could.

We scrambled what we had – our backpacks and the few items of clothing we were not wearing- into a pile underneath each of us and put our feet up on our boots.

The guilty feeling returned and attempts to lighten the mood by quoting Gandalf: ‘He’s trying to bring down the mountain!’ between the booms of thunder was failing to push the newspaper headline – ‘Two Brits Die on Foolhardy Hiking Trip’ – from my mind!

After a while, it passed through and we clambered off of our makeshift ‘safe’ spots and led back down to get some sleep. I had closed my eyes for a moment, or that is how it felt, when Jacob woke me again. The lightening was back overhead and we needed to get ourselves off the ground again.

That is how the whole night continued. I have no idea how many times we fell back asleep before the thunder rang out a warning and back on our bags we scrambled as the lightening cracked through the sky above us. Eventually, perhaps around 5:00am, it finally stopped, and we slept.

The smoky, murky orange sky offering no view on the first night at Little Shovel

Day two

Three-person-in-a-row open-air toilet throne

Inevitably, after such an eventful night, we woke up much later than we had intended. Which was problematic because we did not have anywhere to camp along the trail that night.

With that in mind, we had planned to have an early start and a ‘big day’ on the second day. Ideally, we wanted to get to Curator Lake, which was 11.2 kilometers away from where we were camped at Little Shovel, before turning on our heal and hiking the 21.4 kilometers back to the trail head.

This meant a 32.6 kilometer day with heavy packs, which had seemed possible, but that morning, still at camp at 10:30am, after a broken nights sleep, this was looking unlikely.

But, there was a promising blue sky which had arrived to lift our spirits. The storm may have stolen our sleep, but it had also temporarily cleared the smoke. Instead of a murky, orange tinted dark sky, we could see mountains from the three-person-in-a-row open-air toilet throne.

Much better! The second day the smoke cleared and a very welcome blue sky appeared. Taken at the same place – Little Shovel – as the photo above.
Joys of backcountry camping: open-air, side-by-side toilets with a view!

Tubby bodies and inquisitive faces

After the sore-throat educing conditions on the previous day, it was incredible to be in clear air. We were soon out of the forest, at an altitude where trees do not flourish. But while they may be mostly treeless, alpine meadows are absolutely beautiful and the vast, openness provides immense views of the mountain range.

The trail stretched out in front of us flanked by mountains on either side, with endless peaks stretching into the horizon.

As we walked, Marmots popped up every so often. They ran back and forth across the trail or stood on their hind legs accessing the danger and freezing to stop us seeing them. They do not seem to know how much their tubby bodies and inquisitive faces stand out against the shrubs.

As we passed through another area where camping is allowed, called Snowbowl, I could not help wishing we had been able to get a spot there for the previous night. The forest surrounding Little Shovel was lovely, but these spots in the alpine meadow were incredible.

Jacob at the start of the Alpine Meadow
Blue skies and a long trail ahead
Jacob and I at the start of the alpine meadow

Have you seen the Grizz?

From the camping spots at Snowbowl, we still had 7.3 kilometers to go to Curator Lake and it was already nearing mid day. But the rows of snow capped mountains and the bright green of the meadow against the blue sky had us practically skipping.

We had not seen anyone all morning, but after we left Snowbowl we met quite a few people. Including a women, who seemed to be in her early 70s, who was hiking alone and had the air of someone who had hiked far harder and far more dangerous trails in her time.

Sometimes we walked along chatting to people for a while, other times they were going the opposite way, towards Snowbowl, and so they would ask us the burning question: “have you seen the Grizz?” before moving on.

Potential bears, which may be Grizzy or Black in this area, are not often referred to with the ominous title, ‘the Grizz’, and so we were just growing suspicious when we crossed paths with another hiker on her way towards Snowbowl. She explained why people were so keen to check if we had seen ‘the Grizz’ as we had come through there.

Apparently, there were a few comments for the Skyline Trail on the AllTrails hiking App in the last week which warned people of the resident Grizzly Bear in the Snowbowl camping area. One comment even said that the Grizz had been blocking the trail at Snowbowl and they had had to abandon their plans and turn back.

We reassured this latest vigilant hiker that we had just passed through Snowbowl and that there had been no sign of a bear, no scat, nothing.

We hiked on, reminding ourselves that Grizzly Bears have huge territories and, even if it had been around Snowbowl in the last few days, it could be miles away by now.

Curator Peak

Fired up by the sunshine, the mountains and the meadow

As we passed through the area known as Big Shovel Pass, the trail became even more outrageously beautiful and our determination to get to Curator Lake grew.

The meadow was full of wild flowers of many colours: lilacs, deep purples and bright yellows, their delicate beauty contrasted with Curator Peak’s sharp, grey edges and the bright white snow which still clung on, in patches, to the mountain.

After the numerous things that looked set to scupper our plans and the drama of the previous night, to now be hiking in the sunshine was wonderful.

Suddenly, we were walking not just fast, but really fast. Fired up by the sunshine, the mountains and the meadow; determined to get to Curator Lake.

When we got there, the lake’s milky blue water surrounded by steep banks of tumbling sediment was completely worth the push.

We slung our backpacks on the ground and refueled on sandwiches as quickly as we could. By this point it was nearly 3:00pm and, having got to Curator Lake, we now had to turn around to hike 21.4 kilometers back to the trail head.

Curator Lake
Jacob at Curator Lake
We made it! Quick sandwich at Curator Lake before turning on our heel and hiking back to the trail head.
Yes, that’s a bum bag/fanny pack and yes, my friends do ridicule me about how big it is.

A post-poop snooze

As soon as we turned around and started the hike back, I felt a pang of regret that we had come so far. I went over the trail in my mind, everything we had covered today and yesterday, we now had to do again before darkness fell.

In fact, ideally we wanted to be at the trail head before dusk, having no desire to be in the forest during bears most active time of day.

We did, of course, have all our camping gear and some emergency food, so we could have been naughty and camped in the wilderness, not in a designated camping spot. But it is not allowed in Jasper National Park to ensure the natural flora and fauna is protected from being trampled.

Plus, we had a place booked at the wonderful, front-country campsite, Whistlers, where there would be hot water waiting for us.

We were just making a quick stop at a stream to refill our water bottles before making our way through Snowbowl – the area known to be the preferred haunt of a Grizzly Bear – when Jacob realized, for the second time in two days, that he did not have his bear spray.

It was back at Curator Lake, where he had put it down when he took off his backpack to get some food out.

Now that we only had one bear spray to protect us for our walk through Snowbowl, I held mine in my hand. Just encase.

A little further along the path there was a gigantic pile of bear scat that was definitely not there when we had walked past this spot earlier today.

So much for comforting ourselves with thoughts that the Skyline Trail’s resident Grizzly could be miles away. It was nearby and it had done a huge poop on path in the last few hours.

I took the safely catch off my bear spray and had it ready to fire.

We talked in loud voices as we passed through Snowbowl and periodically called out a low, steady ‘hey bear’ to let it know we were there and ensure we did not startle it.

Either this worked, or it was preoccupied with a post-poop snooze. Either way, we did not see it.

It is – to say the least – exhilarating to know that you are walking near, perhaps even being watched by, an animal that can run up to 35mph and has the strength to drag a fully grown Moose.

The kilometers, quite frankly, slipped by without our noticing, thanks to being on high alert for any sign of a bear! We were soon leaving the Alpine Meadow and reentering the forest.

We passed Little Shovel, where we had camped the night before, it was satisfying to be back there and think of all the ground we had covered since leaving that morning.

It was also a little disheartening to think that we still had a long, boring, 8 kilometers from Little Shovel through the forest to the trail head.

Sweaty and hungry, with fading light and the constant threat of bears, we were two zombies hiking that final 8 kilometers. Barely speaking to each other, occasionally mustering the energy to call out to warn the bears, but mostly fantasizing about stopping, hot water and food.

When we finally reached the trail head, the relief of being able to stop was just the first reward.

The Skyline Trail

The most scenic wash of our lives

Maligne Lake was now magically smoke-free. The mountains, the trees and the clouds were reflected in the water, and, as it was now evening, there were very few people on the water.

Ideal conditions for two sweaty, tried hikers to slip in and take a bath! Feet pulsing, muscles aching, we had probably the most scenic wash of our lives!

Maligne Lake, after we finished the trail. Much better than the view when we started!
Cold water and throbbing toes = bliss
Happy to be finished at Maligne Lake
Maligne Lake
Just before jumping in for a wash!
Jacob at Maligne Lake
Jacob having a very scenic bath!

When we finally tore ourselves away from Maligne Lake, we received Jasper National Park’s second ‘well done’ gift: a bright orange sun, setting amongst the mountains.

After a short wait in a truly Canadian traffic jam – Canadian Geese striding across the road, stopping the cars – we pulled over and watched the sun sink between two mountains, over a lake which reflected back a wide orange road on its still waters.

Sunset in Jasper National Park
A Canadian traffic jam!
Our reward

. . .

Come on another hike with us…

Nature on steroids: four days through-hiking the Berg Lake Trail

A snowy day hiking in the footsteps of First Nation traders and conquering my fear of the cold

A hike in a land formed by ice, to a canyon conquered by paddle steamers

. . .

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