“Smells like beer and tastes like poutine” our first visitor shares her thoughts on Northern British Columbia

If they thought Prince George smelt like beer and tasted like Poutine, then there can be no doubt that our first visitor from the U.K got stuck into life here! On the last night of her trip we had a chat about her time here and the impression Northern British Columbia had made.

Snowshoeing at the historic goldrush town, Barkerville

To prepare for my Mum’s visit, I asked some of our Prince George pals to share their perspective on this city, you can read their thoughts here. It only seemed right to ask Sue some of the same questions!

Like the locals, Sue described Prince George as ‘snowy’ but also said it was an ‘interesting’ place to visit. As well as the impression the beer and poutine left on her senses, she mentioned the inescapable industrial smell, but said that it often smelt fresh and was a surprisingly quiet place.

And the people of Prince George, did they live up to their reputation for being a friendly bunch? Of course, she mentioned their friendliness, but also how open they were and what a diverse range of people she had met.

First impressions

After a month here, what do you think of Prince George?

There is lots to do! From skiing to watching ice hockey to crafting in a café to walking in the parks.

Cross Country Skiing at Otway, Prince George

Food and drink

Have you had any memorable food and drink?

My favourite food was Poutine, I had it twice once at the Westwood Sports Bar and once at The Black Cover Irish Bar.

Speaking of bars, which ones did you visit?!

Westwood Sports Bar, which feels like you are in ‘Cheers’ because of the big square bar in the middle with locals sat at it. There is also loads of screens showing various sports and jerseys hanging from the ceiling.

Crossroads Brewery where we got a ‘flight’ and so we tried four of the different beers they make there. You can see into the brewery, there’s pipes everywhere and a great big, dead black bear on the wall!

What about the restaurants and cafes, any to write home about?!

I loved Wasabi Sushi in the downtown and Nancy Os, it was there that I had my first British Columbian beer and a delicious vegan burger. I also went to Betulla which is a really quality restaurant.

I really love Tim Hortons, I love those Timbits!

But your favourite café was..

Definitely the Makerie! It has great ambiance and really friendly staff. It’s a nice atmosphere to be creative in. I decorated a plant pot and Helen made a felted Robin.

Pot painting and coffee drinking at the Makerie in downtown Prince George

Culture

What did you think of the Northern British Columbia culture?

It’s friendly and laidback, it feels quite rural.

It’s cool that there is a real out doorsy culture. Everyone talks about trails or having to break trails and snowshoeing or skiing. Everyone is getting outside.

Have you had any weird culture shocks or noticed any significant differences between here and the U.K?

There’s no local pubs!

As a pedestrian, the cars always stop for you and wait for you to cross the road, even if you are not at a crossing! You can’t stand by the side of the road without cars stopping to let you cross!

You hear animals you don’t recongise, like strange birds with calls you don’t know and moose bellowing. There’s lots of crows and they are massive.

The constant static shock! The colder it gets, the dryer the air gets and my hair is so static!

Have you had an opportunity to experience the local indigenous culture?

There’s elements of Lheidli T’enneh culture in lots of places around Prince George. I didn’t ever dream that it would be such a big part of every day life in Prince George.

At the University of Northern British Columbia (UNBC) I saw the Grizzly Bear Transformation Mask, a mechanical bear with a human inside representing the belief that everything has a human spirit.

There is indigenous art work painted on the wall outside Helen’s school and in the downtown we visited Angelique’s Native Arts shop and the Uda Dune Baiyoh (House of Ancestors) Café, where we had Bannock.

Seeing more of northern BC

Tell us about your trip to Prince Rupert on the train…

It was a 14-hour journey from Prince George to Prince Rupert. I hardly read because the scenery was so beautiful. We went through the Babine Mountains, past the Seven Sister Peaks, Catherine Glacier and along the Skeena River towards the coast, there was even a full moon.

On the way back it took 12 hours. I hardly saw anything as it snowed the whole time! I did see a moose, which I have never seen in my life before, five balled eagles and a grey fox.

What was Prince Rupert like?

It was, in places, like a typical little seaside town. By the harbor there are wooden buildings in bright colours. I think, in the summer, with the fish and chip shops open, it would have a great atmosphere.

I found a beautiful trail, along the sea front. There were people fishing and lots of boats dry docked. The big difference to Prince George was that there was no snow.

The train to Prince Rupert. Photo Credit: Sue Hall.
Prince Rupert. Photo Credit: Sue Hall.
Prince Rupert. Photo Credit: Sue Hall.

Outdoor adventures

You have explored just about all the hiking trails in Prince George, what were they like?

Cottonwood Island was beautiful because of the carvings on the trees, but when we were there it was -27’C so my nostril hairs froze! I spent a lot of time in Moore’s Meadow, it was a blessing having that right by Helen and Jacob’s house. I’ll miss it.

There are a lot of places in Prince George you can walk around and feel safe. I went up to ‘Forest For The World’ near UNBC and walked around Shane Lake. I had a legendary outing on Connaught Hill, where I learnt about stepping in tree wells!! I also had a coffee and a walk in Ginter’s.

What was your favorite outdoor adventure?

Snowshoeing in Barkerville was loads of fun, breaking trail made it very adventurous. Barkerville is a historic town from the gold rush era. We walked to the end of the town and snowshoed in the forest.

We had to follow ribbons in trees to find the trail. We were so lucky to have it to ourselves. Barkerville has beautiful wooden houses, a fantastic church and a school. It felt like your classic wild west town, but with snow and ice!

Cross Country Skiing is much harder than I thought it would be, you don’t realise how much muscle power you need! It’s hard work!

I wanted to experience Cross Country skiing and see whether I could do it. I was quite pleased that I did a loop on my own, in the dark. I was proud that I went down a slope!

The Oval outdoor ice rink is fantastic! But I hate the bumps in the natural ice, I want normal flat ice! I felt terrified the whole time!

Ice Skating at the community rink by our house
Snowshoeing at the historic goldrush town, Barkerville
Snowshoeing at the historic goldrush town, Barkerville
Cross Country Skiing at Otway, Prince George
Snowshoeing in deep snow at the historic goldrush town, Barkerville
Moonlit ice skate at the Oval outdoor ice rink, Prince George

Best bits

What were your stand out experiences from your time here?

The Winter Olympics that Helen, Jacob and their friends put on and seeing the Cougars Ice Hockey are highlights for me. We didn’t think the hockey would happen as the first game we booked got cancelled because of Covid. I met Rowdy Cat the Cougars mascot! The atmosphere was amazing because of the scoring, the music and the players smashing into the perplex! I’m glad I didn’t miss the experience of a hockey game! It made my trip!

You mentioned the Winter Olympics, which was an afternoon where we competed in hilarious, beer-fueled versions of Winter Sports, tell us more about that…

It was mental!! Really good fun! There was Beer Can Curling, Broom Stick Ice Hockey, a Human Oxe Pull and Extreme Sledding.

I loved playing Ice Hockey and being in goal. The Human Oxe Pull was great because it was so ridiculous. I also loved going down a steep hill on a floatie!

The Cougars game. Photo credit: Sue Hall.
Meeting Rowdy Cat, Prince George Cougars mascot!
The Human Oxe Pull, one of our Winter Olympic sports. Here you can see Courtney and Ryan performing the role of the Oxe, dragging a ski-clad team mate along!
Broomstick Ice Hockey
Beer Can Curling
The Winter Olympics ‘athletes’

Overall, are you glad you came in winter?

Oh yeah! It’s a richer experience. It’s what I thought Canada was like when I was a child. But you can’t just sit inside moaning, you have to get out there in the snow and cold.

I’m glad you came in winter too and so proud of how you’ve thrown yourself into the adventure!

Looking down on the Nechako River on a steep climb down a cut bank during a sunset hike

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Find out more about our first visitor’s time here and plan your own trip to Northern British Columbia…

Perspectives on Prince George: preparing to share the best of British Columbia’s northern capital

Defying a pandemic: Our first visitor from the U.K shares their travel experience

Prince George: The armpit of British Columbia or British Columbia’s best kept secret?!

One year in Canada: ‘9 things I’m excited about seeing and doing in Canada and Prince George’ revisited

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Defying a pandemic: Our first visitor from the U.K shares their travel experience

Find out what it was like to travel, alone, in these tricky times (winter 2021/2022), from the U.K to Canada, to be reunited with us after 16 months apart and experience Northern British Columbia in it’s most extreme season.

Firstly, introduce yourself!

I’m Sue! I’m Helen’s Mum! I live in Wiltshire, England, near Salisbury Plain and Stonehenge. It’s my first time in Canada. I’ve always wanted to visit, since I read a Ladybird Book about Canada when I was nine, I thought Canada looked beautiful, especially all the trees. I did not imagine I’d ever get to visit or that I would one day be visiting my adult daughter here!

You were meant to arrive on the 31st December, why oh why, did you change your flight to two days earlier at the last minute?!

Concerns about new Covid-19 restrictions coming in and stopping me going to Canada and wanting to get the journey over with.

Did the fact that we were not able to come home for Christmas play a part in your determination to get here?

*We were meant to go to the U.K for Christmas 2021, but a new Covid-19 travel advisory from the Canadian government prevented us. You can read more about that in this blog.*

For sure! Yes, seeing your sad face on face time.

Mum, I’m not putting that in the blog.

You’ve travelled plenty in your time. But like most of us, not so much since dear old Covid came along. How was the experience of travelling different in these complicated times?

You spend the whole time paranoid that you will have forgotten to fill out a form or do something important, mainly because of the changing Covid-19 related requirements that countries have. But the ArriveCan app is helpful as it has a checklist of all the things you have to complete.

How many Covid-19 tests did you have to take to get into Canada?

One in the U.K, which, because I came earlier than I had intended, was an expensive, ultra fast test. One in Canada, on arrival, because I was randomly selected. They are not currently* testing everyone who arrives in Canada. *January 2022.

What was being on the plane like, did it feel different?

You have to wear a mask the whole time. But nothing else was different and the mask was not really a problem because I’m used to working in one.

So there were no problems with getting here?

No! I didn’t expect the weather to hinder me on the final part of the journey, after getting through everything else! My plane from Vancouver to Prince George could not fly because of snow, so I had to stay in Vancouver one night and fly the next morning!

When you were able to get your flight to PG the next day, what was it like? I know you were quite nervous about the little propeller plane, was it okay?

A dream! The flight was smooth, the mountains were incredible. The view was out of this world. It was a privilege to see the most stunning mountain scenery. Then to see Prince George in miniature! The poor woman who was sat next to me!!!

I was in awe during that flight too.

How did you feel when you finally stepped off the plane in Prince George?

In my head I thought it would be really stressful because I was expecting to have to go through loads of airport protocols before seeing Helen. What actually happened was that I stepped off the plane and followed a line of people towards the airport doors. Then I could see a person standing and looking out of the window and as I focused I thought, I think I know who that is.

Then I got closer and saw it was Helen and started running and gave her a big hug and screamed a lot.

And then airport security asked us to move along!

Why on earth did you want to come here in winter?

Indeed! I thought it would be more extraordinary and a more memorable experience. I like new experiences!

So, has the weather been memorable so far?

I’ve experienced the hairs in my nostrils freeze!

I have never walked in snow like it in my life before, it’s like walking through lots and lots of icing sugar. It’s just so dry. I didn’t know snow could be that dry, because everything is so damp in England. Snow is always gone within a few days in England, but it just stays perfect here. Even if someone describes it, you can’t imagine it!

It’s gone from -27 on my first day, to -7 today, which now feels balmy!

What are your first impressions of Prince George?

It’s a lot more open that I thought, there is a lot of space and you can see a lot of sky. It’s industrial and feels like a frontier town. The snow makes it hard to get your bearings!

What adventures have you had so far?

Helen and I went to a wood with beautiful carvings in the trees. I had a lesson on Snowshoeing in Moore’s Meadow from Helen, who taught me how to get up if I fall over. Which I did! Then I went snowshoeing on my own in Narnia* on these tiny foot paths through the trees, which cross the ski trails every so often.

*Otway Cross-Country Ski Centre.

What adventures are you looking forward to having?

I am looking forward to attempting to Cross Country Ski. I’d like to hike up a mountain to get a view from a high point. Hopefully see a moose, but I’m glad the bears are asleep! Exploring the city on my own while Helen and Jacob are at work. Chatting to some local people. Ice-skating at the outdoor ice rink. Experiencing really low temperatures. Hopefully getting to see the Northern Lights.

Reunited!
Snow Shoeing!

. . .

What adventures does Prince George have to offer?…

Prince George: The armpit of British Columbia or British Columbia’s best kept secret?!

Snowshoes, Bald Eagles and a Disused Ski Hill: five adventures in Northern British Columbia

Perspectives on Prince George: preparing to share the best of British Columbia’s northern capital

. . .

Perspectives on Prince George: preparing to share the best of British Columbia’s northern capital

With our first visitor (finally…hopefully…) coming in January 2022, I asked some of our Prince George pals for their perspective on how I can share the very best this city has to offer.

Prince George in Winter
Prince George in Autumn/Fall

If you are planning a trip to Prince George someday, then here is your opportunity to find out what is in store. If the thought of venturing this far north fills you with fear (I should be honest, it did with me once) then consider this your virtual trip!

As our visitor is coming in January, this will be winter focused. But as you know from previous tales, life here is completely different each season. So if we are lucky enough to have more visitors in the further, when it is warmer, I will share some summer related suggestions!

Prince George
Prince George

The basics

How would you describe Prince George in three words?

INDUSTRAIL, ADVENTUROUS and FRONTIER.

Marcus, originally from Ontario, has lived in PG for two years.

SNOW, SKIDOO and SCAT.

James, originally from Scotland, has lived in PG for a year.

FRIENDLY, OUTDOORSY and BIG CITY AMENITIES, SMALL TOWN FEEL.

Erica, originally from Surrey near Vancouver, has lived in PG ten years.

How representative is Prince George of Canada?

It’s representative of Northern Canada.

Courtney, originally from North Vancouver, has lived in PG for a year.

Yes it is representative, it’s a mix of the west coast and prairie culture.

Erica, originally from Surrey near Vancouver, has lived in PG for ten years.

What does PG smell, taste and sound like?

Looks like a forest.

James, originally from Scotland, has lived in PG for a year.

Sounds like trucks, smells like Brussel Sprouts.

Courtney, originally from North Vancouver, has lived in PG for a year.

How would you describe PG people in three words?

Friendly, hardy and helpful.

Various people’s suggestions!
Shane Lake in Forest For the World
The Art Gallery
Downtown Prince George
Downtown Prince George

Things to see, do and eat

What is your favorite way to spend a Friday or Saturday night in Prince George?

Close down Crossroads.

Courtney, originally from North Vancouver, has lived in PG for a year.

Go to a Cougars* game.

Jacob, originally from England, has lived in PG for 16 months.

*The Cougars are Prince George’s Ice Hockey Team.

Nancy Os.

Breanne, originally from Ontario, has lived in PG for two years.

Saturday night is Hockey night in Canada. Watch at home with appetizers.

Erica, originally from Surrey near Vancouver, has lived in PG ten years.

Nancy Os open mic – on a weds!

Lindsay, originally from Ontario, has lived in PG for two years.

Which cafes and restaurants would you recommend?

Black Cover Irish Pub, Nancy 0s and Zoey’s Cafe.

Erica, originally from Surrey near Vancouver, has lived in PG 10 years.

Nancy Os and Betulla Burning.

Everyone I asked!

Do a craft while having a coffee at The Makerie café.

Courtney, originally from North Vancouver, has lived in PG for a year.

We have two breweries in PG, Trench and Crossroads, which would you recommend?

It’s a tough pick, but I like the beer and pizza at Crossroads.

Erica, originally from Surrey near Vancouver, has lived in PG ten years.

Trench is small and feels secret and raw because it’s in an industrial part of town, but Crossroads for its menu.

Marcus, originally from Ontario, has lived in PG for two years.

Trench for the beer, Crossroads for the food.

Breanne, originally from Ontario, has lived in PG for two years.

Someone comes to visit PG for one day. What do you do?

Climb Teapot Mountain in the morning, go to Shane Lake for a firepit in the afternoon, night Ski at Otway and then finish up in Nancy Os.

Lindsay, originally from Ontario, has lived in PG for two years.

Start at the Farmers Market, followed by a skate at the outdoor Oval, late lunch at Cimo, ending with a Spruce Kings game.

Erica, originally from Surrey near Vancouver, has lived in PG ten years.
Crossroads Brewing & Distillery
Cougars Ice Hockey at the CN Centre
Northern Lights Winery
Firepit at Shane Lake
Trench Brewing & Distilling
The Makerie Café
Crossroads Brewing & Distillery
The Makerie

The great outdoors

What winter sport does someone have to try?

Stake at the Oval, Sledding at a local school hill – College Heights Secondary School or Rainbow Park – Skiing at Hart Ski Hill, Snow Shoeing at Otway and Ice fishing.

Erica, originally from Surrey near Vancouver, has lived in PG 10 years.

Cross-country ski at Otway.

Everyone I asked!

What are the best trails in the city?

Moore’s Meadow, Forest For The World, the walk to UNBC through Ginter’s and the old ski hill.

Jacob, originally from England, has lived in PG 16 months.

Teapot Mountain, not far outside the city!

Everyone I asked!
‘Forest For the World’ forest
The Nechako River, Wilson Park
Teapot Mountain

Exploring more of the north

What should be on the bucket list for things to do elsewhere in Northern BC/Alberta?

Barkerville historic town and park, Fort St. James, salmon fishing in the rivers further west in the season.

Erica, originally from Surrey near Vancouver, has lived in PG ten years.

Downhill Ski at Power King.

Marcus, originally from Ontario, has lived in PG for two years.

Jasper National Park and the Icefields Parkway to Banff National Park if you have time or Smithers. In both Jasper and Smithers, hire skis and go cross country skiing.

Jacob, originally from England, has lived in PG 16 months.

. . .

Prince George

. . .

Find out more about Prince George…

Prince George: The armpit of British Columbia or British Columbia’s best kept secret?!

First Nation, Fur Trade and a Train Station: How Prince George became a city.

One year in Canada: ‘9 things I’m excited about seeing and doing in Canada and Prince George’ revisited

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