A guide to the Icefields Parkway to celebrate the opening of the Canadian boarder

The time has come to start planning your dream Canadian road trip and you cannot miss out the incredible Icefields Parkway! Below are some tips and tricks to help you plan the drive of your life.

My first travel guide

During the entire time we have lived here, Canada’s international boarder has been closed to non-essential travel due to Covid-19. Naturally, I have not written any travel guide blogs since they would have been about as much use as a chocolate teapot!

But earlier this month, on the 7th September 2021, the Canadian boarder opened.

It’s finally time to get excited about travel again! Start planning those Canadian road trips people!

And if there is one place you have to add to your itinerary, it’s the Icefields Parkway.

Whether you will be exploring with children, adults or adventuring virtually from the comfort of your arm chair, there’s something here for everyone. I complied this guide after we returned from our trip this summer, it covers…

• Basic information about the Icefields Parkway
• Considering whose ancestral home the Icefields Parkway is
• Why you should forget the itinerary
• Some money and time frame things to consider
• Safety points
• Things you can see from your car
• Things you can see a short walk from your car
• How to get the essential things you may need
• A short, child-friendly hike
• Things you could consider skipping and places we missed
• A challenging day-hike and a challenging through-hike
• Some thoughts on Lake Louise
• Tips for getting started

Happy planning!

The Icefields Parkway: basics for beginners!

The Icefields Parkway (IP from now on!) is a 230km road which connects the Banff and Jasper National Parks in Alberta, Canada. The northern end of the IP falls in the town of Jasper, which is just a four hour drive away from our home, Prince George.

Google ‘best drives in the world’ and this road, highway 93, will be listed. After four days travelling up and down it, as it weaves its way through the Rocky Mountains, past glaciers, forests, turquoise lakes, wildflower meadows and, often, some impressive Canadian wildlife, I can see why.

Consider whose ancestral home you are having the time of your life in

Diverse groups of indigenous people traditionally, and currently, lived, worked and cared for this part of the Rocky Mountains.

Historically, some groups lived in the mountains year round, while others travelled to them to access resources, ceremonial sites, mountain passes or to meet with other groups.

You can show your consideration and respect for the people whose ancestral home you are holidaying in through small acts.

One way is by refraining from buying dodgy ‘indigenous art’ from a tourist shop where the money is clearly not going to an indigenous artist. Trust me, you’ll know which shops I mean when you are in them.

Another way might be by explaining to children which band traditionally lived in a particular area or the indigenous names for the mountains you can see.

This article is about some Pipe Ceremonies that were held by a Stoney Nakoda man, but it has a wealth of other information such as place names, illustrating how easily you can find this information online.

Rip up the itinerary

Before you freak out that I’m suggesting you don’t create an itinerary for your trip, let me give you a quick overview of how we spent four days on the IP.

Day one: Drove from Prince George to Jasper. Stopped in Jasper for fuel then drove down the IP to Lake Louise. Stopped at lots of pull-ins to enjoy the view and take photos. Did the short walk to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier, stopped at Bow Lake and Lake Louise. Camped in Lake Louise.

We had not expected to see anything due to forecast of rain for that day. But the weather was great so we stopped lots!

Day two: Drove from Lake Louise to the Bow Lake area to do a challenging day hike in the Banff National Park part of the IP. We thought about camping near there, but decided to camped at a site we love in Jasper. Drove all the way back up the IP to Jasper.

Driving back up the IP in the late afternoon sun was wonderful and going in the other direction from yesterday meant that we spotted new things!

Day three: Drove back down the IP to do the Parker Ridge hike. After we completed it, we drove all the way back up the IP to Japser again. We thought about doing the two waterfalls, but decided to save them for tomorrow! Camped at the same site in Jasper after beers at the Jasper Brewing Co. and an Indian takeaway back at our campsite.

Day four: After breakfast in a café in Jasper, we drove back down the IP to see Sunwapta Falls and Athabasca Falls. Then back up the IP one final time before the drive home to Prince George.

As it was overcast and rainy on the final day, we were glad we’d already seen so much on the other days!

Did you count? It was six! We drove up and down the IP (not all of it each time, but a reasonable portion) a grand total of six times.

This was because we let the weather dictate what we did each day. The weather changes amazingly fast in the mountains and the forecasts are less reliable.

In short, create a list of what you ideally want to see and do while you are in the IP area. But be flexible about which day you do things and in which order. See the IP as an area you are exploring by going up and down it, rather than a road to travel and stop along once.

Each time we drove along the IP the light played differently on the mountains and the clouds parted to reveal previously unseen peaks.

Besides, no matter how many times you go up and down, it will never be enough.

Time of your life

Although I just told you to forget about making an itinerary, you will still need some idea about how much time to allocate to exploring the IP.

The IP could be driven in a morning, but that would be a crime! Factor in at least a whole day to complete the drive slowly enjoying every view and stopping frequently to take photographs.

I recommend having a second day for going back to those places you would like more time to explore (and those obscured by cloud on your first day!). This could also be an opportunity to see some of those beautiful places, such as the waterfalls, which are a short walk from the car park.

You may also wish to leave yourself a whole day to complete a challenging hike or, if it suits your group better, two moderate hikes with a stop for lunch!

You really do not need to summit a mountain to get incredible views (see the short, child friendly hike below). But, giving yourself a full day for a hike or two would allow you to expirence more of this incredible mountain range.

By my count that’s three days. But shorter could work and longer would be fantastic.

Money, money, money

As with many tourist sites worldwide, things can be noticeably more expensive in Banff and Jasper National Parks than elsewhere in Alberta and British Columbia.

The cost of front country camping can be high, but the facilities, particularly at the newly renovated Whistlers Campground, will help make up for the sting on the wallet. Picture a warm, clean shower at the end of a long day hiking in the backcountry and you know why we were happy to cough up.

A key thing to take into account when you are making a budget, is the cost to enter the parks. That’s right, you’ve got to pay to enter both Banff and Jasper National Parks. And they charge you pay person, per day! When we were there it was $10 each a day. You were warned!

Safety First

Jasper and Banff National Parks are teeming with animals. Both Grizzly and Black bears roam free in this wildlife haven. This means that in summer you need to take bear spray. But more importantly, you need to know how to use it (YouTube can help with this).

Know how to distinguish between a Grizzly and a Black bear, this will determine how you react when you see them (again, there are lots of great YouTube videos to help with this). Make lots of noise when you’re on the trail, let them know you are there and most bears will try to avoid you.

You don’t need me to tell you that the weather changes fast in the mountains, you need waterproofs even in the summer! We experienced snow on the summit of a mountain in August!

Watch out for the Jeremy Clarkson wannabes and give these people – who think the IP is for rally driving – a wide birth! Seriously, even ever-patient Jacob got fed up with the reckless driving.

Unfortunately, on our second morning we saw what can happen when idiots treat this wildlife sanctuary like a race track: a dead grizzly bear on the side of the road.

Things to see from your car

As the IP cuts it’s way through the Rockies you can see a great deal without leaving your car. The jagged peaks go on for miles and you can also get your fill of glacier action as they are perched on top of many of the mountains which line the roadside.

Athabasca, Bow and Crowfoot glaciers were among the most memorable which tease you from the roadside. You’ll also see plenty of ice blue glacier-fed lakes!

Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife as you drive along. In Jasper alone we saw Elk, Cariboo, Deers and Black Bears. Don’t ask me why but bears seem to love the road sides!

There are lots of places to pull in, admire these sights and get some photos on the side of the road. This makes the IP accessible to everyone, but if you do want to include some hikes in your trip keep reading!

Things to see a short walk from your car

A five minute walk from the car park brings you to Athabasca Falls. The trail allows you to see the impressive force of the water than crashes down from every angle. Look out for the Potholes, the circles in the rock which have been carved by sediment in the raging water moving in a washing machine motion carving out circles in the rock face.

Sunwapta Falls is also a short walk from the car and has a trail which allows you to get a great view of the waterfall. A photo of the falls with the small wooded island sitting perfectly behind it, is just waiting to become your new desktop background.

Bow lake and glacier are a few moments walk from the car park. The Blackfoot people call the river ‘Makhabn’ which means ‘river where the bow reeds grow’, because they used the reeds to make bows.

It is about a ten minute walk from the car park to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier, whose indigenous name is Cha-a tonga.

This is where being married to a Glaciologist really comes into it’s own, as while we were there Jacob pointed out features in the landscape which tell the glaciers story.

Here’s one for you: look out for moraines. These gigantic piles of debris are made up of sediment which has been deposited as a result of the glaciers movement. They are often left where the glacier has retreated and can show you it where it once was.

Additionally, look out for rocks with glacial striations as you walk over the area where the glacier once was. Striations are long, straight lines in rocks which are created by the glacier, with lodged-in rock fragments, moving over it scraping a line into the rock.

Getting the essentials

There is only one fuel stop along the IP at the Saskatchewan River Crossing, which is in the southern portion. So it is worth filling up before you begin, especially if you’re coming from the north.

Almost all the trail heads and road side viewing spots have long drop toilets and they are marvelously clean! Jacob had a wash in Bow River (without soap – his bathing needs did not warrant damaging a precious ecosystem!) after we had completed a long day hike and summited Cirque Peak.

There is not many places to stop for food, flushing toilets and baby changing facilities, but the Columbia Icefield Centre is one and it has a spectacular view of the Athabasca Glacier.

This is also where you can book a hike/bus ride on the glacier. We were put off by the amount of tour buses so did not venture in, but you can bet I would have availed myself of the Starbucks there if it had been colder!

Last but not least, be prepared for no phone service along most of the IP.

A short, child friendly hike

In terms of bang for your buck the Parker Ridge Trail is an absolute win! It is a 3km walk up hill on a switch back trail and would be fairly easy for anyone who is moderately fit. With a bag of sweets to bribe kids, I’m confident they will managed it too! We saw people of all ages, taking their time and coaxing each other on.

What you get for that effort is indescribable. Walking over the ridge truly unlocks the mountains behind it. The view is 360 degrees and it is unforgettable in every direction. Walk over to the edge of the ridge and you will see all of the valley behind, including the magnificent sight of the Saskatchewan Glacier from high above.

Sure the relative ease of the trail means there are a few ‘Instagram Boyfriends’ working hard get their partner the perfect shot of a place that both of them have yet to actually look at. But as with anywhere popular, walk that extra bit further and you will have a spot in paradise all to yourself.

Things to skip and some places not mentioned here

At $40.95 a person the Columbia Icefield Skywalk (a short glass walkway, which gives you a slightly better view than you would get from the road) seems an easy choice of things to miss.

However, the Skywalk is a unique, accessible experience for people who may not be able to hike, children or enthusiasts of glass-bottom walk ways! If, like us, this is not you, skip this tourist attraction! Save your money for the Jasper Brewing Co.

There are a few things which we did not see, either because we did not have time or because we were not able to. Here’s two that we would like to see another time.

The trail to Peyto Lake was closed for restoration when we were there (summer 2021). The photographs of this glacier fed lake look incredible and I’m told there are some great hikes around there, so one to make a beeline for if it’s open.

After the mixed feelings we had at Lake Louise (see below) and witnessing the tour buses take the turning for Moraine lake, we decided to give it a miss. Choosing either Louise or Moraine also makes sense if you are tight for time. some say Moraine is less busy than Louise, so that is worth taking into account if you are only aiming to visit one.

Challenging day and through-hikes

This summer we have completed two particulary unforgettable hikes which are in this area. The Skyline Trail which is a through-hike in Jasper National Park and a day hike called Lake Helen and Cirque Peak in Banff National Park.

The stories of these two hikes – including, dodging a resident grizzly bear, fearing for our lives as lighting illuminated our tent and experiencing snow in August – have to have their own blog posts. Watch this space, I’ll share a link once they are written!

But for now, rest assured, that if you’ve come to the IP looking for an adventure and a challenge, you will not be disappointed.

Some thoughts on Lake Louise

Where do I begin. Obviously you have to visit Lake Louise, it is one of Canada’s top tourist attractions.

And when you arrive you will not be alone. Before Covid hit, it’s estimated that 10,000 people visited Lake Louise every day. Even when we went, towards the end of the day, when the Canadian boarder was still closed, it was very busy.

Brace yourself for the man who will get out of his silly bat mobile (apparently also known as a “Tesla” with “falcon wing doors”) like a film star, the endless yoga poses being performed in front of the lake captured solely for the ‘gram and that monstrosity of a hotel. Oh and the crazy amount they charge for parking.

But here is the redeeming part: Lake Louise is accessible. For wheel chair users, prams, walking stick users and small children. Anyone and everyone can come and enjoy the pristine mirror-like lake, the glacier, the mountains. That has to count for something.

Plus, if you go before 7am or after 7pm the parking is free! I would opt for the morning when the water will be still, the atmosphere will be serene and you can take a walk and enjoy!

Getting started

There are lots of blogs and websites that can help you prioritise which sites you will enjoy most. This one and this one cover many of the places I have not mentioned.

If you are planning a longer hike I recommend reading about it first on All Trails. BUT, top tip, be sure to check it again and read the latest ‘reviews’ the day before you plan to hike. People often leave information about the conditions on the trail, helping you know what you need to take.

If we had done that the day before we hiked the Skyline Trail we would have known about the resident Grizz before starting. Thankfully we only encountered it’s gigantic scat, not the beast that had left it, but it’s always good to know before you go!!

Finally, if you’re planning a trip and have a question, hit me with it!

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Now you’re excited to plan your trip, here are a few places to add to your ‘must see’ list..

Prince George: The armpit of British Columbia or British Columbia’s best kept secret?!

A teapot for a birthday: A spring hike in Bear Country

A Nordic ski paradise… just eight minutes from our home

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Plenty more inspiration for a trip to Northern BC coming soon, so get subscribed…